28 September 2012

Birding Missionaries

25 September 2012.  Who would have thought there were missionary birders besides ourselves?  I didn’t think so, but it turns out there are quite a few.  The last 3 weeks have brought us 3 visitors, one from Romania, one from Dominican Republic and one from Canada. (Don’t any Norte Americanos want to go birding?).  All 3 are connected with World Renew or Christian Reformed World Missions, and all were birders keen to see some new Nicaraguan species.  I had previously and cleverly asked our supervisor to insert in our job description the role of accompanying in the field all visiting birders.  Even though he hasn’t written the job assignment that way (not yet anyway), we still got the assignments.


Let me describe a little of just one of our adventures.  Steve, from Dominican Republic, speaks fluent Spanish.  Although the locals thought he might be from Argentina, it wasn’t for lack of understanding Spanish directions that we got lost.  Understand that in Nicaragua about 99% of the roads and streets have no names, and there are no street addresses as you would understand them.  Instead, we were headed for a remote lodge about 25 kilometers from the town of Esteli where the nearest point of reference was a rural bus stop.  We found Esteli just fine, but … well, here are the directions from the lodge's website:

from  Uno Gas Station number two (ex Star mart) in Estelí turn east into the road bound for Yali until you get to the fork in the road, with an old house in between the two roads. Take a left and follow the same road to the "Rampa" bus stop, then travel 400 meters uphill.

Sounds easy, right?  It turns out the Uno Gas Station had changed name to Puma, and of the three Pumas on the main highway through Esteli, none bore “number 2.”  But you are probably thinking—like me—that it should be the second one, in the middle, because counting from either direction it would be number 2.  That would be wrong.  As it turned out it was the third one we encountered—named neither Star Mart, Uno, nor number 2.  And here let me insert a word of wisdom about asking for directions—don’t ask the young man at the pump at the second Puma station; it’s the guy driving the Pepsi delivery truck who knows where things are.

Once we got on the right road headed east we looked for the fork in the road with an old house in it.  Turns out there are several intersections that look more or less like forks, and usually there was a house nearby.  The Pepsi delivery man (even he has some limitations) thought it was about 5 kilometers from the Puma station—it turned out it was 12 kilometers, but we didn’t know that for another 2 days.  So somewhere around 5 kilometers we turned left on a road, passing not far from a house between the two roads.  Expecting another 15 to 25 kilometers ahead of us, we settled in for the drive up the mountain, enjoying several stops for interesting birds along the way. 

But somewhere around 15 kilometers into this leg of the journey I begin to have doubts that a bus would ever make daily runs up and down this particular road to the “Rampa” bus stop, like the directions said.  Within a short distance of finally expressing this thought aloud, what should meet us coming down the mountain but a full-sized bus.  Thus full of false assurance that we were on the right road, we pressed on.  As the road got worse and worse, we stopped 2 or 3 times for our friend to ask if we were, indeed, on the road to our lodge.  Yes, the lodge is ahead, they always said.  A few kilometers more, they always said. 

When we were about 20 kilometers (and about 2 hours) along this road things started to really deteriorate.  Our trusty (I hoped!) Rav4 was beginning to hit rocks as we straddled gaping holes and ruts in the road.  At one point Steve got out and peered underneath.  “It looks like you have protective plates covering the important parts.  I think we’ll be okay.”  I prayed he was right.  The car’s 2 liter engine was really laboring to carry the 3 of us up some of the really steep and long grades, and then we would plunge back down into a canyon to encounter streams 10 inches deep crossing the road.  Through them we plunged, committed to finding this lodge and a great weekend of birding.

Finally, more than 20 kilometers along, as we crept up a very steep and rutted stretch I had to stop, set the brake and get out.  Before going ahead I needed to inspect the ruts, rocks, and roadway just over the rise.  Were we going to make it or would we have to turn around and spend 2 more hours going back the way we came?  If we had to go back then it would be long after dark before we would arrive (assuming we ever found the place), so I really didn’t want to do that.  We looked the road over carefully, eventually removing a couple of boulders that threatened to damage the undercarriage of the car.  Yes, we thought, if only the driver is in the car, it will probably make it up and over the rise without getting high-centered.  As we were surveying the situation, we were watched the whole time by a small family, poor rural farmers sitting on their porch and enjoying the foreign entertainment we provided.   Steve asked them one more time whether the lodge was ahead on this road, and they assured us it was, just a few kilometers ahead.

So carefully, slowly Rav4 crept up and over the hazard.  Though I feared otherwise, the worst was now behind us.  We eventually came to a bus stop.  But it bore no name, so was it “Rampa” or not?  There was no clear “uphill” from there, and 400 meters on the road beyond there was no lodge in sight.  But yet another local assured us the lodge was still ahead, so on we pressed.  Finally I saw it on the hillside ahead, looking like the beautiful pictures I had seen on the internet.  We had arrived at last.  But having gotten there, I wasn’t sure I wanted to go home.  It took us nearly 3 hours to cover the 25 kilometers (or more) on the roughest road I had ever driven in Rav4.  I knew that if that was the way to Finca Neblina del Bosque, I’d never be coming back for more birding.

At dinner in the lodge that night we met a nice Nicaraguan family, a couple with their 10 year old daughter.  How did they get there? we asked.  Oh, we drove up in our little red sedan, they said.  I couldn’t believe it.  Their tiny car made our old Toyota Camry look like an off-road vehicle!  So we started asking questions of the people working in the lodge.  Which way did we come? they asked.  When we pointed in the direction we came from, their eyes widened.  Why did you ever come that way they asked? 

Well, it was all about that fork in the road.  I have always admired the wit and wisdom of Yogi Berra, who once said, “if you come to a fork in the road, take it.”  Well, this time we shouldn’t have followed Yogi’s advice. 

The next evening around sun-down about 50 (no kidding) powerful 4x4 trucks came roaring up the same road we had driven up.  The 4x4ers were fast, loud and proud of the mud they had accumulated conquering the same nasty road we had survived earlier. 

Three-Wattled Bellbird
Once we finally got there the birding was very good.  Highlights included Cinnamon-bellied Flower-Piercer, Azure-crowned Hummingbird, and the elusive Three-Wattled Bellbird.  This latter bird deserves more comment.  A week earlier in another location we heard a Three-Wattled Bellbird and narrowed its location down to one tree, which we were standing under.  And despite 45 minutes of looking into this tree while the bird called loudly and nearly continually, we could not see it.  So it was particularly satisfying on this trip to see it fade into and out of view in the mountain mist, eyeing it through our telescope from hundreds of meters away.  God must have been chuckling when he made this bird. With its wattles dangling from its face, it suggests to me the inspiration for certain space aliens I’ve seen in the movies. 

Two days later when our time was up we drove in the opposite direction away from the lodge.  After going about 400 meters down the hill we passed the “Rampa” bus stop (at last!), and we were on our way home.  The ride back down, despite being 25 kilometers of gravel, was smooth and luxurious in comparison to the ride up the mountain.  We enjoyed every minute of it.  I guess we can go back after all. 

No comments: